Showing posts with label 1940s. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1940s. Show all posts

Friday, 25 July 2014

Andale, andale, arriba, arriba!



I’m sitting in the office working whilst waiting, very impatiently waiting, for the delivery of a long anticipated vintage staple.  Yes, I have finally found the Mexican Souvenir Jacket of my dreams and it is being delivered today.

Most vintage lovers have one of these on their list along with green shoes, fur lined winter boots and a telephone cord purse, though it could be argued that the jacket is the most useful. 

Classic red Mexican jacket - AS IS £25


Decent vintage outerwear is hard to find, decent casual wear even harder.  People just wore things longer and a lot of people would either save for a proper overcoat or wear suit jackets.  

I’m a casual kind of girl a lot of the time – as much as I’d love to wear vintage suits every day I don’t have the energy or the job to allow it – I like my jeans (Freddie’s naturally) and my flat shoes for schlepping around town.  Finding a genuine vintage jacket that goes with a casual vintage look is a nightmare. 

All hail the Mexican souvenir jacket.  Usually made of wool or occasionally gabardine (how I long for one in gab – if anyone sees one – holler at me!)  the Mexican Souvenir jacket is both short, casual and fun, plus it looks great with jeans and saddle shoes.

Cream 50s jacket, £32

I do apologise if I cause any offence but I am putting issues of rich Americans culturally appropriating ethnic clothing aside (this is both 70 years ago and the styles were deliberately Americanised rather than aping traditional costume).


These items were made and sold in Mexico from I believe the early 40s and right into the 70s.  I have seen a couple which I would swear are late 30s but these are few and far between.  They were primarily bought by American tourists visiting Mexico and I understand they were often simply sold at the roadside by local women although there are certainly some which are “labels” and would have been available in the shops.  There was even a sewing pattern issued so you could make your own without the need to travel.

Vintage pattern £40


The jackets tend to come in few basic colours and designs, though almost always the same cut.  The main colours are red, green, turquoise and cream.  Black jackets are a lot rarer and you will occasionally see a yellow one or sometimes something in two colours. 


The embroidery usually features Mexican motifs.  These are often scattered horseshoes, sombreros and cacti on the front, often featured on the collar and pockets, then either a very large dancing couple on the back, sometimes with the word “Mexico” sequinned on, or a scene showing small figures going about their day to day business.  These are usually embroidered on using yarn but sometimes appliqué is used as well, especially on more large scale designs. The borders of the jacket are usually blanket stitched in a contrast yarn. 

Jacket with a boating scene £30


Most jackets are pretty brash in their design, which is incredibly fun, and I do want one of these, some however are more muted, the decoration being in just one or two colours.

A much simpler style £50


The very simple cut did not change much over time – the jackets tend to be long sleeved do not have fastenings – though some short sleeved and even poncho versions appeared in the 70s.    Some stylistic details to keep an eye out for are little tucks at the sleeve cap and some are round necked while others have collars. 



I have finally chosen a dark green design, very simple, and unusual for having very muted colours in the decoration – I’ve not seen one like it before.  I cannot wait!




And lo, I’ve been called to reception, it’s arrived!


Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Make a spectacle of yourself



The sun is out!  It's April in the UK and the bloody sun is bloody shining!

And now I'm going to jinx it with a Summer based post...

I couldn't find my sunglasses this morning, I lose things all the time, usually within the confines of my small one bedroom flat. Le sigh.  So it looks like a need a new pair.  Then I thought, ooh, a brief history of sunglasses might be fun, along with some shopping ideas.

You really didn't need my train of thought there, did you?

Anyway, according to Wikipedia (why reinvent the wheel?):

Inexpensive mass-produced sunglasses were introduced to America by Sam Foster in 1929. Foster found a ready market on the beaches of Atlantic City, New Jersey, where he began selling sunglasses under the name Foster Grant from a Woolworth on the Boardwalk.[6] By 1938 Life magazine wrote of how sunglasses were a "new fad for wear on city streets ... a favorite affectation of thousands of women all over the U.S." It stated that 20 million sunglasses were sold in the United States in 1937, but estimated that only about 25% of American wearers needed them to protect their eyes.[7]


Styles have changed a lot over the years and so below is a potted history and some modern examples:

the 1930s and 40s - the originals!

Early sunnies weren't necessarily the most face flattering but I love them nevertheless.  Look at these examples.  The shape tended to be round and the specs rather large

Life Magazine Archive
Bette rocking some white framed sunnies
stylesight.com
The 1930s and 40s - the vintage inspired finds

The gold floral numbers below are uncannily similar to the top pair above - TopShop round sunflower glasses, £20




For the more demure: Black round sunglasses - £4.99, New Look


And some lovely white frames, £9 - ASOS




The 50s and 60s - the originals!

The 50s and 60s really had three main looks.  The cat's eye - which epitomised the glamour and fun of the 50s, the large Wayfarer for mid 50s to mid 60s and the giant bug eye which look great with the more mod-ish 60s styles, taking influence from the space race.

Marilyn in cats eyes

Audrey in oversized Wayfarer frames

Jackie in bug eyes
The 50s and 60s - the vintage inspired finds

These pearl encrusted specs from Jeepers Peepers are just perfect! £18


These are a tad less OTT, Brown animal print half frame sunglasses - £4.99, New Look



Metal frame cats eye sunglasses - oh so Marilyn! - £20, TopShop


Those transitional large Wayfarers - £10, ASOS

And the perfect bug eyes, Jeepers Peepers £18


You may even prefer to find original vintage frames. Through I would recommend getting these reglazed with more modern sun protective glass if you want to take care of your eyes.

I've always had a great service from Dead Mens Spex.  They always have a large range of everything from Victoria to the 80s and can glaze your choice of frame using a prescription sunglass if needed.

These are fab!



What are your favourite glasses styles?  Do you change up depending on your outfit or choose based on your face shape?

Tuesday, 15 April 2014

Old Movie Madness - Heartbeat (1946)



Aaaand - I'm back again.  I've been watching a lot of films lately in my effort to get up to date with my knitting.  This weekend gave me this very sweet Ginger Rogers offering, and who can resist Ginger.

This romantic comedy opens in what appears to be a schoolroom, but it quickly becomes clear that Professor Aristide, in a wonderfully Fagin-esque turn by Basil Rathbone, is teaching them little in the way of morality and everything about survival.

Enter Arlette and her enormous hair (Ginger Rogers), who has just escaped from Reform School without any identification papers and is looking for a new start.

It's enormous, really enormous!

The Professor quickly realises that such a pretty young girl can be an asset to someone living a life of crime and teaches her the tricks of the trade.

Unfortunately Arlette isn't as adept at the trade as expected and is quickly caught stealing a tie pin from a gentleman on the tram.  Said gentleman agrees not to prosecute on the proviso that Arlette help him out with something equally underhand (get your minds out of the gutter people!) and so she agrees to pose as a nobleman's niece at a society party.  Her job being to dance and flirt with young diplomat Pierre, in an attempt to prove that the young man is sleeping with another man's wife.

Arlette finds her evidence, a photo of the lady in his watch, but in a goodhearted gesture intended to save hurt all round she steals the photo, keeping his secret.

Pierre, not realising the beautiful girl on his arm is a thief, is so smitten he drives her home and the pair share a kiss - Arlette's first kiss.  They agree to meet the next day at the station.

Arlette confesses all and Pierre is furious but he agrees to help her and arranges her a sham marriage for her to a friend, to help her get her papers.  He leaves, but realises he might love her and returns to see if his feelings are true.  With him there, Arlette cannot marry another and calls off the wedding.

The question is, will Arlette and Pierre end up together or will they just keep double crossing each other...

It's been a while since I saw something so resolutely mid 40s.  This was '46 - the year before Dior released his New Look into the world - and you can see that '46 was considerably less structured. There aren't the severely nipped in waists we would expect from '47 onwards for example.

The first item of clothing that really caught my eye was this absolutely darling little blouse, up close it is really a chequered print.

 I love the pointy collar, which reminds me of these blouses from Qbiffa on eBay.  I have one of these in black and it's gorgeous.


You can see the print and the little beret it is teamed with here. The film is set on the continent, after all.  You have to have a beret, it's compulsory.


Later Arlette is given a very extravagant gown for the ball.  The skirt is formed of three tiers and the whole thing studded with rhinestones.


More enormous hair, and a massive flower.

 These two tiered dresses are held in the Met Museum and are both from 1946.  It was clearly the done thing to dress like a wedding cake in 1946.


Once Arlette is engaged and has access to some money she seems to love her some sun suits.  The first picture below is a most delightful full-length cover up with big severe military shoulders and two tone stripes across the chest.


As usual she pairs this look with massive hair.  The more you look at it the more spaniely it becomes, unfortunately.


Below you can see a bizarre mohair bra top and high waisted shorts combo.  In fact, I would argue this is an early bikini.  The bikini was officially launched in 1946 and this shows that the wardrobe department on Heartbeat really were making efforts to keep it looking contemporary.


There is also quite an array of striking headgear featured.  The feathery pompom hat below, part of Arlette's dark wedding suit for her sham marriage, is so wonderful and hilarious and so very 1946.  Paired with the freaking massive hair it makes her silhouette almost symmetrical.


In fact it recalled to me this picture from the ever brilliant Fashion Era site


The cheating wife of the ambassador also liked a feathery hat and also had massive hair, here - massive victory rolls.  I'm also more than a little in love with the collarless jacket and the sequinned blouse / jabot.


The lady clearly liked her sparkle, in this scene she seems to have a string of diamonds woven into her updo.


And finally - freaking massive flower style wedding headgear.  Yes, it is petals.  Yes, they are bigger than her forehead.

 This picture, also from fashion-era.com, shows some real folk getting married in '46 with the bride wearing something broadly similar.


A great film for fashion, though there isn't a lot of it.  Arlette, being poor, doesn't have a vast wardrobe to choose from.  Still, I feel the outfits here really show fashion on the cusp of change.  The sun suit about to become the bikini, the military lines about to be replaced by the dangerous curves and voluminous fabric of the New Look.

Oh, and restrained 40s practical dos being usurped by the big fluffy hair that the 50s would adore.

For your delectation, two last pictures of the back of the big hair.









Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Review: Dolly Pegs Vintage sew at home kits.



So, those of you who read this blog will know that I've been trying and failing to learn to sew for a while.  While I can handle knitting needles tolerably well sewing is another story - I find it incredibly difficult.  I've several half completed projects littering the flat as I tend to be OK until I get to waistbands, buttons and zips.

Thus, when I saw this kit from Dolly Pegs vintage clothing on eBay I decided to take the plunge and give it a go.

I ordered the kit in a bottle green and it was very quick to arrive.  It comes with everything - the pattern cut out, interfacing applied and tailors tacks sewn in, along with a spool of matching thread and four buttons.

pic from their site, I was too excited to take photos before beginning

The instruction book that came with the kit is really helpful, (there are some flaws which I'll come to later) and so I sat at the sewing machine, reminded myself how on earth to wind the bobbin and got stuck in.

Everything went swimmingly until I got to the buttonholes, and here I discovered that, despite having an automatic buttonhole foot, buttonholes are a b@%!@£d.

Still, I got the things together, they fit and they definitely look like trousers!

excuse the mess, I'm ill...boo


I've learnt a lot from this project - about darts, buttonhole positioning, adding waistbands and the importance of interfacing and now I feel ready to pick up those half finished projects and tackle them again.

I do have a few criticisms of the kit.  For £20 I'd have expected better fabric - it may just be the green I chose but it seems like 100% polyester, the shiny dinnerlady kind that melts the moment you waft an iron near it (I very nearly burnt them when pressing the waistband).  Unfortunately this fabric, as well as looking ugly to my eyes, is also rather stiff and doesn't drape at all like a genuine vintage fabric which therefore makes these unwearable for me.  I'm rather a stickler for only wearing natural fibres where ever possible and  I'm aware others might not be so fussy.  Also, there seemed to be no right or wrong side to the fabric, which made things a little confusing when working out which piece was which.

The only other things are really niggly: the instructions have quite a few spelling mistakes, not the end of the world of course but they did bother me, and finally, I think the instructions would benefit from photos for some stages rather than sketches.

Despite these issues I would still strongly recommend this kit for anyone starting to sew, it has really given me the confidence to step back into it.

They have other styles of trousers as well as blouses and playsuits in their cloth kit range and are well worth a look.


Monday, 24 January 2011

Old movie Madness: Curse of the Cat People (1944)



I have finally gotten round to reviewing the “sequel” to my first Old Movie Madness post, the terrific “Cat People” starring Simone Simon.  I watched this some weeks ago but not wanting to swamp my blog with movies posts I put it to one side.  I’ve decided not to swamp you anyway.

This film shares many cast members, Simon herself as well as Kent Smith and Jane Randolph, playing her former husband (Oliver Reed) and his new wife Alice.

Since the last film the pair have moved away from the city and have a young daughter, Amy (the looks-spookily-like-me-as-a-child Ann Carter) who is having trouble at school due to her dreamy nature.



Oliver is determined that Amy will give up her dreamy ways, which remind him so of his former wife Irina, however the local children will not play with her and her only friend becomes the spirit of Irina who appears to her in their garden.  



Amy also makes friends with an elderly woman living down the road, the woman’s daughter lives with her but the parent claims she is not her daughter but an imposter.  This relationship mirrors Amy’s fears that her parents will not love her if she does not succeed in making friends.

The film, while very watchable, suffers terribly from the decision to market it as a sequel to “Cat People.”  Yes, it shares the same cast but the story has nothing to do with the previous film and could easily have been independent from the previous movie.  In fact this might have done it some favours at the box office as I’m sure I  would have felt somewhat tricked if I went to the cinema expecting feline women slinking around in dark suits and got a little girl in a frilly dress skipping around her garden.

The film was heavily edited to add in cat references to try and please the viewing public and it seems that as a result some key pieces of the storyline were removed – this would account for the disjointed quality of the film.

There is not much to comment on in terms of clothing in the movie, sadly enough.  Irina, when she does appear, seems to be wearing some kind of 40’s take on a Medieval gown and then the rest of the film mostly features children.  I’m not interested in children’s fashion, I hated being one and don’t want any of my own, so this aspect didn’t do a thing for me at all!

All in all I did enjoy it, the acting was just the right side of hammy and the child just creepy enough for me.  Truthfully, there is something very frightening about the way it looks into the darker side of childhood psychology, I could relate a lot to Amy and her problems making friends and I did find this aspect of the film genuinely moving.  It is a film that has stayed with me since I watched it some weeks ago.  Definitely worth a look.

Sunday, 23 January 2011

Old Movie Madness: I Married a Witch (1942)



I've spent the entire weekend in the flat watching films and knitting.  I'm having a reclusive weekend and I have thoroughly loved it, despite the side effect being that time seems to have raced by.  I cannot believe it is Monday again tomorrow. 

One of the movies I watched today as the early 40's comedy, I Married a Witch, starring Veronica Lake and Frederic March.  I must admit to never having seen a Veronika Lake film before and I'm not sure if this was the one to make me like her.

The film starts in Salem where Jennifer (Lake) and her father are burned at the stake and buried under and oak tree after being convicted of witchcraft by the Puritan Wooley.  Jennifer curses Wooley and his descendants to marry unhappily for eternity.

270 years later the tree is struck by lightning and the pair escape as white vapours and float around the modern day looking for trouble.  Coming across the young Wallace Wooley, an aspiring politician and soon to be married descendant of their captor, Jennifer decides to wreak further revenge upon him by making him fall in love with her.

She needs a fire to regain her body and so the witches set fire to the Pilgrim Hotel. The hotel clerk tells the fire brigade that all guests are safe and accounted for, however when Wooley passes by he hears a female voice and runs into the building heroically.  Inside Jennifer has transformed into the ridiculously glamorous shape of Veronika Lake, with full peekaboo hair.  She is naked, sadly wreathed in smoke, and Wooley gives her his coat and carries her from the fire.



Unfortunately Wooley fails to fall for her charms and after stalking him quite determinedly she finally decides to give magic a try, concocting a love potion by singing badly at a cauldron.  Unfortunately Jennifer drinks the potion by mistake and falls head over heels for Wooley, crashing his wedding and finally persuading him to elope with her.



Wooley's political career seems to be in tatters, but Jennifer proves her supernatural powers by giving him a 100% win at the election.  In disgust at his daughter's show of love for the descendant of their sworn enemy her father removes her powers and attempts to trap her back in the tree which held them.  Love is stronger that witchcraft however and Jennifer returns to her husband, trapping her father forever in a bottle of liquor, where he seems quite happy.

All in all it is a daft little film, an average script and little attempt at acting from Miss Lake, however simply being so aesthetically pleasing seems to be enough to carry this lightweight yarn.  Famously March and Lake disliked each other intensely and this does come across, with the two main characters showing little on-screen chemistry.

It is all very predictable but as such is a perfect film to while away just over an hour on when you don't want something you have to concentrate on.  As mentioned earlier Veronica Lake's hair is utterly perfect throughout and it is easy to see why so any women of the time wanted to emulate her.



Worth watching as a bit of fun on a rainy day but nothing special.

So, could Miss Lake act?  Recommend me some of her other movies so I can see for myself.