Golly, I’ve been slack
again lately. My life is pretty hectic
and I rarely get the time to just sit and write a blog post. I used to try and squeeze them in during my
lunch hour but now that I use that time to pick heavy things up and put them
down again repeatedly I just cannot seem to find a blogging space anywhere. So – as a result – this entry
is rather late. A fortnight late in
fact. Sorry Sophia.
Whats more, Blogger is being WEIRD. So please excuse the formatting oddities below. The highlighting means nothing. the font changes mean nothing. I'll try and fix it later.
Anyway – a fortnight ago I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to meet Barbara Hulanicki,
the brains behind Biba. Barbara has just had a book published – “Seamless
from Biba – A Life In Design” which showcases her career as a designer of
clothing, interiors, shoes and , well, pretty much everything.
For those who don’t know
(is there anyone who doesn’t know?) Biba was the beating heart of London style
in the 60s and 70s. After starting off
as a mail order company, selling one dress via the Daily Mirror newspaper back
in 1964, they company opened their first store later that year and another in
1965. Selling an estimated three million
garments by the time the company closed.
The teenagers of the UK
were hungry for something new and Biba aimed their clothes directly at them –
affordable (many would even say cheap), wild in design and sized for the waif
like figures of the young the clothes were an instant hit. The shops eventually became department stores
– selling everything from baked beans and dog food to wallpaper and cutlery.
I have to say meeting
Barbara was a real experience – I was expecting her to be somewhat terrifying –
surely a woman with that much entrepreneurial spirit and talent would be. I was in for a surprise though – she really
is a warm, funny, self effacing lady. Delicate
and birdlike and full of surprise and joy at her success and the enduring
appeal of her work.
Simply everything was
covered - reminiscences about her time at
the shop, her favourite model, the launch of the make-up range, celebrity
gossip and her design influences.
Barbara cites her
influences to be the Art Nouveau, Art Deco and the movies of the 30s – namely those
of Garbo and Dietrich. Her favourite
actress however and ideal customer was Audrey Hepburn – who mixes the glamour
of old Hollywood with the gamine figure of the 60s.
These influences led the
designer to use a lot of original vintage fabric too, rich 30s velvets and
rayons, even prompting Barbara to bring people out of retirement to weave the
fabrics she wanted rather than falling prey to the polyesters and crimplenes of
the day. I suppose now we'd call it affordable luxe or something equally daft.
Of her celebrity customers and visitors the
most memorable were Suzi Quattro – who filmed a music video there and who she was
afraid would damage the shop as she jumped around Marc Bolan who famously wore
one of her sequinned jackets and the New York Dolls who while being utterly
charming and elegant, proceeded to shoplift several outfits and later wore them
in one of their videos.
The New York Dolls - I believe the spotty blouse you can see was pinched from Biba. |
Mr Bolan himself looking ever so impish and adorable in a Biba jacket from 1973 |
Green Biba lipstick in Vanity Fair, 1971 |
Amazing Biba make up guides for copying various old Hollywood looks. |
Barbara's favourite models were Ingrid Boulting and Maddie Smith, who I believe were, like many of her models, taken from the ranks of her shop floor staff.
Visit this blog for a lovely article of Ingrid Boulting's take on the Biba look
I'm not going to bombard you with pictures of Biba dresses, you are all more than capable to your own google-fu and I've been wittering on long enough. Suffice to say I had a marvellous time and have really enjoyed looking through the book which has certainly given me a few fashion ideas.
I'll leave you with a couple of pictures of the wonderful lady herself: