Cuffing hell! Boucher and the 1950s ear cuff.

Tonight's Evening Standard, a local free daily tabloid I pick up on the way home to occupy me on the dull commute, has today included a fashion article about ear cuffs.  An apparently futuristic jewellery trend that reminds them of Star Trek.  Silly billies.

The "luxe cuff" as they are calling it, presumably to separate it in the fash packs minds from those little metal Celtic things we all wore in the 90s, has in fact, been knocking about since the 1950s and were the signature design of jeweller Marcel Boucher.

The Boucher brand really began in 1937  but before this Marcel was gaining valuable experience working for Cartier.  In 1936 though, he left the company and started out on his own.  He specialised in costume jewellery - fashionable items rather those designed to be a show of wealth - and used three dimensional naturalistic designs.  These were just want the public wanted, after years of Art Deco (though how one can tire of Art Deco I cannot imagine) and success was swift.

Naturalistic peacock demi parure

However it was really post-war - with the advent of the New Look that Boucher really came into his own.  Heavily influenced by his future wife Sandra, a fellow designer, whom he had lured away from rival jeweller Harry Winston he started designing elegant parures which went so well the heightened femininity of the Dior look.

A harlequin parure

Their designs were widely copied and much coveted but the Bouchers kept there business on the small side, preferring to stay involved with the manufacture and design of the products rather than becoming a big brand like Trifari.  This enabled them to keep their designs fresh for a while however as the more simplistic looks of the 60s approached, they found their elaborate rhinestones were falling out of popularity.

Sandra briefly left to work for Tiffany but was not happy, returning to the fold soon after and marrying Marcel in 1964.  Sadly Marcel fell ill shortly after their honeymoon and died only six weeks later.  Sandra kept the business going until 1970 but then sold up as keep the company afloat was difficult alone.

Bees on honeycomb pin, Sandra's design from the mid 60s

You can often find 50s ear cuffs on the usual auction and sales site but they are often an investment at around $75 a pair.  They really are stunning pieces of 1950s fashion history however and add an elegant touch to a polished evening outfit.

Currently on Etsy:

blue rhinestones

White rhinestones

Boucher style stars (these are most likely a modern copy)

Simply Devine, Darhling!

Devine, Divine, oh yes indeed.

The partnership behind cult jewellery brand Tatty Devine have made the 2013 New Year’s Honours List.  Rosie Wolfenden and Harriet Vine have been collaborating under the Tatty Devine label since 1999 and still run the company independently, designing all the pieces themselves.  The stuff is still made here too.  Best of British, whatwhat!

The pair met on a Fine Art degree course at the Chelsea School of Art and started off making bracelets from leather samples to sell on their market stall.  Through sheer talent, diligence and entrepreneurship they have slogged hard to build a brand that now features in Vogue and sells in Selfridges and is popular from Japan to Australia and across Europe.  Well done those girls.

Their MBE is being given for services to the fashion industry and well deserved it is too, developing a worldwide brand from a Spitalfields market stall is no mean feat.

They are best known for their Perspex silhouette designs – especially the name necklaces which were splashed all over the fash mags a few years back - but there is plenty for the vintage lover in their catalogue too.  2012 saw a range featuring Jubilee inspired crown designs as well as some delicious art deco leopard jewellery in a delicious hark back to the Bakelite gimcracks we all hanker for.

In a statement the pair have said:

"We are very proud and honoured to be awarded in this year's list. We want to thank all our customers for their support. Tatty Devine has now become a small but important contributor to the UK economy, and we are proud to represent British design and manufacturing around the world. Everything about Tatty Devine is a result of the collaboration and friendship between us. It's brilliant we're getting these medals together."

Bless ‘em.

Speaking of statements I’m in love with their vintage inspired style and Harriet’s  ever changing barnet. 

As well as selling incredible jewellery Tatty Devine also runs the occasional free workshop – the next being a FREE glitter heart brooch making session on Saturday 2 February at their Brick Lane store.  No need to book – just drop in between 11 – 3.  I’ll be there for sure – I need something for to wear for the Ric Rac club Valentines.  J

They are also previewing their Spring Summer collection on 31 January with 10% off all jewellery on the night! 5pm – 8pm at their Brick Lane store.

So – to finish I’d like to show you some pieces which I think show some vintage influence and one which I have just decided to purchase.  Oh yes.

Anchor necklace £12

Gin cuff links £30

Leopard head large brooch £44 (mine mine mine!)