How to buy vintage online - tips and tricks.

I have spoken to a few people recently who have told me that they are scared to buy vintage online either because they are worried that items won't fit or because they are new to vintage, so here is a little guide to help the vintage beginner take their first steps

Step 1:  Know your stuff.

 Before I really started buying vintage seriously I tried to learn as much about it as I could.  One of the best ways is to become a member of The Fedora Lounge - the best online resource for vintage information about the golden era (it mainly covers 30's - 50's with a little 20s and 60's thrown in for good measure).  I am sure there are similar sites for other decades too.

 I also bought a very useful little book - "It's Vintage Darling!"- and it is largely thanks to this compact but incredibly useful guide that I can now identify a 40's dress at 40 paces.  The lovely Retro Chick is also a fan and her page links to Amazon - so clicky here.  I just wish I hadn't written all over my copy it as it seems to be out of print and the price is high!  
 

 

There are also lots of other great books available - I personally am hankering after this little number.


I also find watching movies from my chosen era really helpful, though I suspect these cinema wardrobes are responsible for my addiction to over-the-top hats!

Spending time in vintage shops also helps, examine the clothes in person, get a feel for cut and style and fabric prints of your era.


Step 2: Sizing.

We all know sizes vary between different modern retailers so it’s no surprise that vintage clothing sizes vary even more…while it is common knowledge that Marilyn Monroe wore a size 16 in the 1950’s it isn’t often realised is that this is equivalent to a modern UK size 12.  Also many vintage clothes were handmade and thus fitted to the makers particular measurements rather than confirming to a standard “shop” size.

This can all be confusing and as such most vintage items on eBay are listed with the garment measurements rather than just the original size. 

 How to measure yourself:

You will need a tape measure a pencil, a full length mirror, a piece of paper and, if you aren’t too flexible, a  friend…

Step 1 – measure yourself and write it all down:

Bust: across the shoulder blades at the fullest part of the bust, do not hold the tape too tight or you will squash your boobage!  Not a god look when wearing a dress.

Waist: around the thinnest part of your torso – don’t suck your tummy in or breathe in, this needs to be a realistic measurement!

Hips: Around 7-8 inches below your waist at the fullest point

Sleeve and leg length – from shoulder to wrist and front inside leg to ankle

Shoulder to waist can be important too - a lot of vintage dresses are pretty shortwaisted.  (Thanks for the tip Lolita!) 

The pic below should help.

 peculiar genitalia they gave her, poor love.

Step 2 – measure your clothes and write it all down

Take similar measurements from a couple of your own garments, ones which fit you well.  

Step 3 – Compare!

Look at the difference between your measurements and the garment measurements, the garments will be slightly larger and the difference will give you an idea as to how much bigger than you a garment should be to give you a comfortable fit.

Step 4 – Compare again!

This time compare your measurements with those of the garment you are looking to buy – try not to be tempted by too small or too large items as few vintage sellers offer refunds for items which simply do not fit.

Step 5 - ….and repeat!

You size will change over time – so please ensure you are aware of your current measurements when buying vintage.

How I measure garments:

I measure my garments laid flat, and then double where appropriate:

bust measurement is taken from underarm to underarm;

waist measurement is taken across the garment at the narrowest part of the waist (note if the waist is elasticated I give the measurement of the waist unstretched and the measurement of the waist fully stretched );

hip measurement is taken across the garment, 7 inches below the natural waist

length measurement - depending on the type of garment this is taken from neck to hem, shoulder to hem, waist to hem etc, this is included in my listings

outside arm measurement is taken from the shoulder to the wrist;

inside arm measurement is taken from the underarm seam to the wrist;

Step 3: Dealing with sellers 

My eBay seller chums are going to spank me for this but I am very cheeky when it comes to buying online and recommend using the same approach, but carefully.  I frequently ask for extra pictures and measurements, for a discount or whether I can pay in instalments.  It doesn't always work but extra photos can be absolutely key in determining the condition of a garment. Of course if a garment is reasonably priced it can looka little cheap to ask for the price to be lowered, so please only do this when you feel a price is a little high!



Step 4 (thanks Kim Bombshell): Bidding methods

Bidding early can work against you, driving a price up much higher than an article is worth.  I always prefer to use a snipe site:  the benefits are twofold.  Firstly the site makes your bid for you, in the last secons of the auction, so you don't sit up all night in your flat in London waiting for a US auction to end (yes, I have set my alarm for 3am to bid on eBay before...).  Secondly, you put in your max price when you set up the snipe, therefore it is much easier to keep your spending in control.  I perfer ezsniper but there are loads out there - just give it a google!


Step 5:  Sometimes it is worth taking risks


Some of my best purchases have been those little 99p buys that had a blurred photo and a sparse description.  Sometimes it is worth taking a risk and the more you train your eye the better you will be at huting down those online bargains.


Please tell me your vintage shopping tips and tricks!